Former created

1:24 scale former and guide

The first steps in preparation for the construction – creating a guide/former that will hopefully help keep everything aligned during the construction process.

I’ve cut a guide for each of the 9 datum points detailed in the original drawings and positioned them along the centre datum. By lifting the guides off the board the ends of the bow and stern will sit directly on the board.

The shaped pieces of wood to the left of the base are the first sections of the keel that I’ve roughed out. The picture below shows the three sections resting on the former in approximately the correct position…

First keel sections positioned on the guide.

Fresh start

1:24 representation of the keel with the section markers

I’ve been putting off shaping and adding strakes to the keel while I’ve re-evaluated the project in the last few months. I’ve slowly come to the conclusion that the previous choice of scale (1:32) wasn’t going to be a practical option.

Although 1:32 has it’s benefits and would work well as a static model I’ve been looking at what will be involved to integrate RC components into the build to control the sail and rudder and, at 1:32, I don’t think there is enough space to hide the components.

So… I’ve ditched the 1:32 parts and started creating a new keel at 1:24. I’ve also decided to create a wooden former that will act as a workspace while keeping the keel and strakes true. I know a lot of people build these ships onto a frame, using a technique that was common in later use. Viking ships were built as a shell up to and above the waterline. The internal frames were then added and tied to the strakes.

I’d like to use the same technique with my model but will use a former as a guide while the shell is built. The original boats were built from the keel up and stone/rock was used to maintain the shape of the shell (along with the shape of the strakes and the natural bend of the wood as a result). I’m expecting to build mine upside down and use the former to hold the shape while I add the strakes.

Keel roughed out

I’ve now completed a rough layout of the keel. The keel is approximately 5.6mm thick at 1:32 scale and to simplify construction somewhat I’ve used ply sheeting. One sheet of 4mm ply makes up the core of the keel, sandwiched with two sheets of 0.8mm.

Creating it this way allows for my lack of woodworking tools as it allows the steps for the planking to be incorporated. It also, I think, adds to the strength of the keel which was originally a 7 inch by 14 inch section of oak.

As with the original, the keel is constructed in 3 sections, the keel itself in the centre and the the bow and stern sections at each end.

Now the keel is roughed out I can start experimenting with the methods for shaping and adding the planks. The lower planks, in particular, will need to be mocked up in cardboard to try and get the planks to form the curves of the hull as they are added.

First steps…

All Viking ships begin with the keel and my model is no exception to that rule ! I’ve settled on a scale of 1:32, hopefully large enough to faithfully be able to model the components but small enough for transport/storage.

To aid in building the hull and ensuring symmetry and alignment, I cheated somewhat by creating and printing a 3D model of the basic keel shape and stands that will hold the keel securely.

The keel design, and the profile guides added to the stands, were taken from the available online plans of the original ship. I’ve had to use a conglomeration of different plans as many of them are not properly to scale/ratio and there are some differences between them so I’ve had to make some compromises. Rightly or wrongly I’ve chosen the deepest of the keels that appear in the plans, hoping that that will give a better performance and decrease lee drift.

For the plastic template I’ve created a very wide stem at both ends to give some scope for adjustment in the wooden version. The outer curve is correct but the inner is a lot deeper that the final version will be. I’m undecided yet on the stem design, I may try and make the top of the stems removable so I can swap between different designs. The “classic” interpretation of a dragon’s head seems to be falling out of favour with researchers and there is some evidence that the stem figures were removable.

I may end up creating 3D models/templates of other parts of the construction to help visualise and test the construction. I’ll upload the CAD files when I’m happy that they represent final versions.